WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DERBY AND RICHELIEU?
Who hasn't asked themselves that question? If you'll pardon the pun, the derby and the richelieu are two of the most popular shoes for men (among the different styles of men’s shoes). In this article, we'll look at their respective histories and characteristics. For although these shoes may resemble each other in certain respects, they are also very independent of each other.
DERBY OR RICHELIEU: THE DIFFERENCE AT A GLANCE
The difference between a derby and a richelieu comes down to the lacing: closed on the richelieu, where the quarters are stitched under the vamp, open on the derby, where they are stitched over it. This construction detail changes the look, the fit and the occasions on which they are worn.
| Richelieu | Derby | |
|---|---|---|
| Lacing | Closed: eyelets punched directly into the vamp, V-shaped gap | Open: quarters stitched onto the vamp |
| Look | Slim, clean line | More relaxed line |
| Recommended foot shape | Slim foot, low instep | High instep, looking for ease |
| Occasions | From a suit to town outfits, even with jeans | From everyday to the office, even dressy outfits in black leather |
| At In Corio | Marc, Arthur, Clément, Filbert | Luc, Jules, Jean, Baptiste |
In both cases, our shoes are Blake-stitched and rest on a high-density latex midsole: immediate comfort, whichever you choose.
DERBY, RICHELIEU, LES ORIGINES
RICHELIEU, THE CLASSIC SHOE PAR EXCELLENCE
When we think of Richelieu, we think of the pair of black shoes that go with all our suits. The kind you'd also wear for a variety of ceremonies. In short, a dressy pair with which you're sure not to make any mistakes.
The origins of the shoe are unclear. There are three competing versions:
- For France, the Richelieu comes from the Duc de Richelieu, great-nephew of the illustrious cardinal who introduced this model to the court of Louis XIV.
- In Ireland, Richelieu became Balmoral, in reference to a boot specially designed for Prince Albert. Today, Balmoral is the name given to a Richelieu with a side cut.
- Last but not least, our best enemies, the English, named their Richelieu after Oxford University. This is the “Oxonian” model. Even today, on the other side of the Channel, we still speak of the Oxford model.
DERBY, CAMPAIGNING FIRST AND FOREMOST
Here too, the Derby has several origins. The first, of course, comes from England in the 19th century. Edward Smith-Stanley, the 14th Earl of Derby and then Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, found his richelieus tight. So he asked for lacing that was more open and less constricting on the instep: the Derby was born.
Another origin comes from Prussia. During the Napoleonic Wars, General Von Blücher came up with the idea of a boot that would be easier for his soldiers to remove, giving them a definite advantage in the heat of battle. In the United States, the Blücher name has remained associated with the Derby.
DERBY, RICHELIEU, COUSINS AUX CARACTÈRES INDÉPENDANTS
RICHELIEU, SPECIFIC FEATURES AND USES
The Richelieu is by nature the classic shoe. It is distinguished from the Derby by its closed lacing, i.e. the two garants (the sides of the shoe) through which the laces pass are linked by a seam in the middle of the vamp (which corresponds to the bottom of the instep). Visually, this creates a V-shaped slit. This makes the Richelieu easy to identify.
When it comes to comfort, the Richelieu provides ideal support for the foot. Thin feet in particular appreciate this type of shoe.
In terms of use, the Richelieu has long been confined to the most formal occasions: work, weddings, formal outings... In fact, it was always available in black. Today, as fashions have evolved, the Richelieu is available in a wide range of colors, and can be worn for any occasion.
For example, at In Corio we offer it in black, chocolate brown, burgundy, cognac, fawn, khaki, brown suede... It's a far cry from the traditional “No Brown in Town” adage.
On the contrary, the idea is to take the Richelieu out of its straitjacket. Suit, chino, jeans... any outfit is possible. And from a very classic model, the Richelieu becomes an everyday pair, capable of adapting to any situation. What's more, as you know, we attach great importance to the comfort of our shoes. And our Richelieus are no exception: you can happily wear them for days on end.
AT EASE IN THEIR DERBY
As you might have guessed, the Derby is distinguished from its sister model by its open lacing. Here, the laces are not sewn to the upper, giving the foot an appreciable ease of movement. The Derby is the ideal shoe for people with a strong kick, or for those looking for freedom from constraint in this sometimes sensitive area.
The Derby has always been a weekend shoe. Unlike the Richelieu, which was on call during the week. Often made in brown, the Derby was THE pair for the gentleman-farmer. Corduroy pants, a tweed jacket and the job was done.
But just as with the Richelieu, the Derby has emerged from its gilded prison. In black or brown leather, it can be a perfect alternative to the Richelieu for formal wear. In different colors, its often more casual style makes it an ideal shoe for people who like casual style and permanent comfort.
At In Corio, we offer three derbies:
- Baptiste, classic and timeless in black and chocolate leather, ideal if you're looking for a dressy pair.
- Luc or Jules in smooth, grained or suede leather, ideal for an assertive country look with its commando sole.
- Olivier or Jean in grained or smooth full-grain leather, which are derbies with a characterful platform, on a solid stitched rubber sole
HOW TO WEAR DERBIES?
The derby goes with almost the whole men’s wardrobe: it is the colour and material of the leather that steer the outfit, from the dressiest to the most casual.
Which trousers with derbies?
- Suit trousers or grey flannel trousers, with a black derby like Baptiste, for a sober office outfit.
- Beige or navy chinos, with a brown or cognac derby like Olivier, for everyday elegance.
- Raw denim jeans, with a grained or suede derby like Jean, for the weekend.
- Corduroy trousers and a tweed jacket, with a commando-sole derby like Luc or Jules, in homage to the gentleman farmer.
A neat hem, just brushing the top of the shoe without breaking on the vamp, shows off the line of the derby.
DERBY OR RICHELIEU? CHOOSE BOTH!
The Derby and the Richelieu both have their advantages.
It's comfort and aesthetics that will make you choose one model over the other. They even complement each other. And don't forget that from the second pair purchased at In Corio, the price is degressive. Now's the perfect time to try on one of our Richelieus and Derbys, isn't it?
Derby or richelieu, the same ritual applies: a cedar shoe tree after every wear and regular nourishing cream so that the leather keeps its suppleness and its line.
Still unsure between derby and richelieu? Come and try both in our stores in the Marais, Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Lyon.
FAQ
What is a derby?
A derby is a lace-up shoe whose quarters are stitched on top of the vamp, which opens up the lacing and gives the instep more ease.
What is the difference between an Oxford and a richelieu?
None: Oxford is the English name for the richelieu, referring to the university where this style is said to have been adopted.
What is the difference between a derby and a loafer?
A derby is laced, a loafer slips on without laces. The derby offers an adjustable fit and suits dressy and casual outfits alike; the loafer is about ease and a more relaxed look.
Derby or richelieu for the office?
Both work. A black or chocolate richelieu remains the most formal reference; a derby, in smooth leather and a sober shade, suits a professional environment just as well, with more ease.
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