How are leather shoes made?
Behind the scenes of demanding, committed craftsmanship
Have you too ever been frustrated by shoes that are beautiful... but painful to wear? At In Corio, this was our starting point. We're convinced of one thing: comfort and manufacturing quality must go hand in hand. So, rather than compromise, we decided to rethink everything - starting with the way we make our shoes.
A tradition reinvented
Shoe-making is an ancient art, patiently handed down from generation to generation. For centuries, artisan bootmakers have been designing, cutting, assembling and sewing with unparalleled meticulousness. But between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary demands, the challenge is daunting: how to preserve the nobility of the gesture without neglecting everyday comfort?
This is precisely where our approach lies. At In Corio, we've chosen to marry the best of both worlds:
- full-grain leathers carefully selected from the best tanneries in France, Italy and the UK,
- a Blake stitched assembly chosen for its finesse and flexibility,
- high-density latex insoles, just like in a sneaker, designed to naturally support and cushion the step,
and an ergonomic footbed that we've developed and patiently tested with our fitters to adapt to the morphology of the foot.
Leather, a material of exception... and conviction
In Corio means “in leather” in Latin. A name that owes nothing to chance: this living, sensual material, both robust and supple, is at the heart of our passion. It is also often misunderstood. Because not all leathers are created equal. Some are artificially smoothed, others pigmented to the extreme to mask their defects... At In Corio, we make a radical choice: that of sincerity.
We use only full-grain leather, i.e. the top layer of the hide, uncorrected. A noble leather, with tightly-woven fibers, dense in collagen, that breathes, ages like fine wine, and develops over time that unique patina that tells your story.
But leather is not enough. For it to express all its nobility, you need a hand. That of our craftsmen in the Porto region, who shape each pair by hand, check every seam, and add that extra touch of soul that makes all the difference.
Key stages in handcrafting: from design to final brushstroke
Making a leather shoe is an adventure. A symphony of dozens of precise, demanding steps, requiring both rigor and attention to detail. At In Corio, this process leaves no room for approximation. Every gesture counts, every material has a purpose, every finish tells a story.
1. Design: it all starts with a line
Before the first cut, there's the idea. A line, a curve, a balance. The brand's founders are involved in the design of every shoe. You won't find In Corio shoes anywhere else. Each shoe is inspired by the classic shapes of men's footwear - moccasins, richelieus, derbies, boots - which we revisit with subtlety. The aim: to respect heritage while meeting today's demands.
This design work is accompanied by rigorous technical development with our experienced pattern makers: pattern creation, choice of proportions, definition of fit. This is where the promise of comfort is born, long before the first piece of leather.
2. Leather cutting: precision in the service of the material
Once the pattern has been validated, it's time to cut. Our craftsmen select the full-grain leather by hand, inspecting each hide for the most even, dense and beautiful areas.
Each piece is then precision-cut, often using dies, to ensure evenness. This painstaking, manual work determines the quality of the assembly to come. At this stage, the material is not yet a shoe... but it already has the nobility of one.
3. Assembling the upper: the leather takes shape
The various pieces of leather are then assembled to form what is known as the upper - the upper part of the shoe. This operation is carried out by sewing, on machines adapted to working with thick leather.
Each seam is carefully aligned by the craftsman's precise hands; each edge is smoothed, tinted and reinforced. Take time to observe the regularity of the stitching, the meticulous finishing and the discreet piping that underlines the profile of the shoe.
4. Assembly: where the shoe becomes the shoe
Once the upper is ready, it is mounted on a last, a kind of resin mold that reproduces the silhouette of the foot. This is a key stage: it gives the shoe its final line, its volume and its fit.
At In Corio, we've developed our own last, designed to fit the foot naturally, with excellent support and no pressure points.
This is also when we integrate our ergonomic, high-density latex insole, a signature of our approach to comfort. It provides exceptional cushioning and even distribution of body weight from heel to forefoot.
We then use a Blake stitched assembly - an obvious aesthetic and technical choice in our quest for comfort and elegance. This unique seam connects the sole to the upper through the insole. The result: a shoe that's slim, immediately supple, terribly elegant... and easy to resole. This step is particularly impressive, as the craftsman guiding the shoe through the sewing machine has no room for error!
5. Finishing: the art of detail
Last but not least: the finishing touches. The sole is polished and tinted with our signature blue, and the upper is waxed and polished by hand to reveal the depth of the leather. The flat waxed cotton laces are also applied by hand.
Finally, each pair undergoes rigorous quality control, before being packed - in 100% paper, recyclable and responsible packaging - and prepared to join its future owner.
Craft or industry: two visions of footwear
At first glance, all shoes look alike. But when you take a closer look - or, better still, wear them - the difference is obvious. And above all, you can feel it on your feet.
When you choose a handcrafted shoe, you choose excellence, durability and comfort. A choice that makes sense, both for you and for others.
Industrial production: speed, volume, compromise
Industrial manufacturing is based on standardization. Shoes are mass-produced, often on the other side of the world, with materials chosen for their cost rather than their quality.
- Leather is frequently corrected or pigmented, losing its authenticity.
- Soles are welded, simpler to produce but far less durable.
- Comfort is often sacrificed for industrial speed.
- And the pace of production follows that of the collections: quickly produced, quickly consumed, quickly discarded.
The result is a shoe that looks good on the shelf... but gives away after a few hours' wear.
Handcrafted products: quality as a guiding principle
Conversely, at In Corio, every pair is designed to last, to be worn for years to come, and to embellish over time. Our approach is based on a clear foundation: expertise, high standards, respect for the product and the wearer.
In concrete terms, this means
- Exceptional materials: only full-grain leathers, rigorously selected in the same tanneries as the most prestigious bootmakers.
- Craftsmanship: in family-run workshops in Portugal, where each craftsman knows the name of the one who sewed before him.
- Stitched assembly: Blake, for a suppler, finer shoe that's also resoleable and durable.
- A focus on comfort: thanks to our exclusive ergonomic footbed and latex insole, designed to hug the foot.
More than a shoe, a philosophy
In an age when everything speeds up, we've chosen to slow down. To do less, but better. And to think of the shoe as an object that accompanies life - not as an accessory to be replaced with the seasons.
This is what enables us to offer high-quality footwear at the right price, thanks to a model without intermediaries and reasonable margins.
A discreet but real luxury. And above all: affordable.
Caring for your leather shoes: prolonging elegance over time
A beautiful leather shoe is a bit like a mechanical watch or a piece of solid wood furniture: the more you take care of it, the more it reveals its beauty. At In Corio, we've designed our shoes to last. It's up to you to make them last even longer.
1. Gentle cleaning
After some wear, dust and traces of life accumulate. Regular cleaning prevents these microaggressions from damaging the leather.
- Use a horsehair brush or dry cloth to remove dust.
- For light stains, a slightly damp cloth is sufficient.
- Never use aggressive products or industrial wipes: they can dry out the leather.
2. Nourish and protect
Leather is a living material. It needs nourishment to maintain its suppleness and color.
- Apply a nourishing cream (colorless or lightly tinted) once every 4 or 5 ports.
- Leave to penetrate for a few minutes, then buff with a soft chamois.
- For smooth leathers, you can add a finishing polish to revive shine and create a protective barrier thanks to beeswax.
At In Corio, all our full-grain leathers respond particularly well to care: the more you care for them, the more elegant their patina becomes.
3. Alternate ports
Leather, however robust, needs rest. Wearing the same pair of shoes two days in a row prevents the foot's natural moisture from evaporating properly. This can damage the lining and accelerate wear.
Our advice: alternate between two or three pairs over the course of the week. In fact, that's why we offer a sliding-scale price scale from the purchase of two pairs: to encourage this good habit... and make the most of your shoes.
4. Store with care
A tidy shoe is a lasting shoe.
- Use untreated wooden shoe trees to maintain shape and absorb moisture.
- Keep your shoes away from direct light, in a temperate place.
5. Make the sole last
- For models with leather soles, we recommend discreet glides and inset irons (by a shoemaker), especially if you do a lot of outdoor walking. Our Paris boutiques offer this service, as well as blue glides to match your soles.
- Gum soles, on the other hand, are ready to face the daily grind without any special maintenance.
Why choose In Corio: where know-how meets comfort
We designed In Corio with a simple idea in mind: to offer shoes that are as elegant as they are comfortable to wear. Too often, beautiful shoes require compromise. They're stiff, fragile or uncomfortable. We wanted to do the opposite.
Our promise: elegance for everyday life
- Exceptional materials, chosen for their nobility and durability.
- Immediate comfort, thanks to a unique ergonomic construction.
- A fair price, made possible by direct distribution and reasoned production.
- Craftsmanship, visible in every seam, every detail, every finish.
At In Corio, every pair is designed to last. To accompany you through your days, your appointments, your adventures. So you never have to choose between style and well-being again.
