How to clean leather shoes without damaging them?
The expert guide to restoring shine and longevity to your favorite shoes
Leather shoes are much more than just a clothing accessory: they embody your elegance. But elegance doesn’t happen by accident. Poorly maintained leather becomes dull, dries out, and eventually cracks. On the other hand, a well-cleaned and nourished pair gains in beauty, comfort, and character.
At In Corio, we believe that taking care of your shoes also means taking care of yourself. In this guide, you will discover the essential steps to effectively clean your leather shoes without damaging them, while respecting their living nature and artisanal craftsmanship. A simple ritual for lasting elegance.
Preparing your shoes before cleaning
First and foremost, leather must be prepared methodically. Cleaning without care risks damaging it. This initial phase, often overlooked, is essential to successful maintenance.
- Start by removing the laces to fully expose the upper and access every corner.
- Insert raw wooden shoe trees. They stretch the leather, make handling easier, and absorb moisture.
- Dust off dry using a soft brush or microfiber cloth. This prevents dirt from scratching the surface during cleaning.
- Finally, identify the type of leather: is it smooth, oiled, grained, or suede? Each type requires suitable products.
👉 At In Corio, our full-grain leathers are chosen for their ability to age beautifully — provided they receive this minimum level of care.
Effectively cleaning leather shoes
Cleaning leather is a subtle balance between effectiveness and gentleness. The goal: to remove impurities without altering the material, and to prepare the leather.
Recommended materials
- A horsehair brush
- A soft, lint-free cloth
- A special In Corio leather cleaning milk
Method for smooth leather
- Dust off with the brush
- Add a small dab of cleaning milk to the dry cloth
- Clean with circular motions, without rubbing too hard
- Wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. The leather should remain supple, never saturated with product.
Specific stains
- Grease: apply Sommières clay. Let it sit overnight, then brush off.
- Ink or mold: use a specific stain remover such as Réno’Mat, always testing first on a discreet area.
- Stain on light leather: light leather shows every mark. A cleansing milk applied in small touches, dabbing rather than rubbing, removes most marks without leaving a ring. A neutral cream or one matching the colour of the leather then restores evenness.
- Light scratch: a nourishing cream in the same shade, massaged into the area then buffed, softens surface scratches while nourishing the leather.
👉 A suitable product is the key to preserving the integrity of the leather while reviving its natural beauty.
Removing old polish from a leather shoe
Removing old polish, or “stripping”, means dissolving the accumulated layers with a cleansing milk, in several passes, until the cloth no longer picks up colour. This step lets the leather breathe again and absorb care.
When to strip your shoes?
When the leather looks dull despite polishing, whitish deposits appear in the creases or the colour becomes uneven, successive layers of wax have saturated the surface. Stripping once or twice a year lets you start again from a healthy base.
The method
- With shoe trees in place, apply the cleansing milk to a soft cloth in small circles.
- Change to a clean part of the cloth regularly, so as not to redeposit the wax you have removed.
- Repeat until the cloth stays clean.
- Leave for a few minutes, then nourish the leather with a cream before any new polish.
High-shine finish and polish in a different shade
A high-shine finish is removed in the same way, with a little more patience on the toe cap and heel counter, where the layers are thickest. For a trace of black polish on brown leather, the method is the same but very localised, followed by a cream in the shade of the shoe to even out the colour.
Cleaning soles and the inside of shoes
A clean shoe is clean underfoot and inside too: the sole and the lining play a direct role in the comfort and longevity of the shoe.
Soles
A rubber sole is cleaned with a brush and a little soapy water, then wiped straight away. A leather sole, more sensitive to water, is brushed dry; after rain, it dries slowly, laid flat and away from any heat source.
The inside and odours
A barely damp cloth with a drop of mild soap is enough to freshen a leather lining. The cedar shoe tree, slipped in after every wear, does the rest: it absorbs moisture, neutralises odours and preserves the feeling of comfort you get when putting your shoes on.
Nourishing the leather after cleaning
Leather nourishment
- Once cleaned and dry, apply a nourishing cream suited to the color of the leather (or neutral).
- Massage in circular motions with a clean cloth, focusing on the creases in the leather.
- The leather absorbs what it needs.
- Let it dry for a few minutes and brush off any excess.
- To revive the shine, finish with a thin layer of polish, then buff with a soft brush.
👉 At In Corio, we favor full-grain leathers, naturally resistant. Well-nourished, they develop a unique patina, reflecting your use and your style.
This is the case with our Marc Oxford: its full-grain leather, nourished regularly, gains depth over the wears, while its high-density latex midsole maintains constant cushioning.
Regular maintenance: the right habits to adopt
Well-maintained leather requires little effort on a daily basis. Here are the habits to adopt:
- Use raw wooden shoe trees after each wear.
- Let your shoes breathe for at least 24 hours between wears.
- Lightly brush after each use to prevent dust buildup.
- Moisturize every two weeks, or after prolonged exposure to rain.
- Polish every 4 or 5 wears, depending on the desired finish.
👉 These simple actions extend the lifespan of your shoes while enhancing their appearance over the years.
Want to discover our leathers and care products? Come and feel them and try our models in our stores in the Marais, Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Lyon.
FAQ – Answers to your frequently asked questions
Which product should be used to clean leather?
A cleansing milk is sufficient in most cases.
Can shoes be washed with water?
Yes, but sparingly. Never soak them: a slightly damp cloth is enough.
How to remove a stain?
Identify the nature of the stain. Apply the appropriate product (Sommières clay, specific stain remover), then rinse and nourish.
Should you polish after every cleaning?
No. Occasional polishing is enough. The key is to regularly nourish the leather.
Can leather shoes be machine washed?
We advise against it: a large amount of water and spinning deform the upper, harden the leather and weaken the stitching as well as the sole bonding. Hand cleaning with a cleansing milk protects the shoe.
Cleaning your shoes means giving them new life. It also means extending elegance every day, without ever sacrificing comfort. At In Corio, we provide you with carefully selected maintenance products designed to accompany our exceptional leathers.*
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