How to Remove a Stain from Suede and Nubuck Step by Step?

How to remove a stain from suede and nubuck step by step?

Elegant, soft to the touch, and subtly textured, suede and nubuck embody the essence of suede leather. These materials, often used for shoes with a chic casual style, captivate with their discreet refinement. But their beauty has a downside: their sensitivity to stains, especially nubuck.

Oil, wine, ink, rain, dust… each stain can leave a lasting mark if not treated quickly and methodically. Suede can absorb, nubuck reacts, and cleaning cannot be improvised. A wrong move or an unsuitable product is enough to permanently alter the velvety surface of the leather.

Understanding the specificities of suede and nubuck

At In Corio, we design suede shoes that combine comfort, elegance, and durability. All our velour calfskin (or suede) is treated in the workshop to withstand everyday wear and tear. Proper maintenance will extend the lifespan of your shoes. In this guide, we walk you through step by step: how to identify the type of stain, choose the right cleaning method, and sustainably care for your suede and nubuck shoes.

What are suede and nubuck?

Suede and nubuck are two finishes of suede leather, but they differ subtly:

Nubuck is sanded on the outer side of the hide (the grain side), giving it a very fine and velvety texture.
Suede, on the other hand, comes from the underside of the hide. It is more fibrous, more textured, and very durable.

Both types of leather are known for their soft feel, matte appearance, and ability to add depth to a shoe. At In Corio, we favor the use of suede, sourced from prestigious tanneries in Italy.

Our suede models

Why are these materials so delicate to clean?

The main problem lies in their porous structure. The fibers of suede leather easily absorb moisture and oils, making stains stubborn. Any overly aggressive treatment can flatten or irreversibly polish the surface, altering the velvety appearance so characteristic of suede or nubuck.

It is therefore essential to favor gentle, targeted techniques and products specifically designed for this type of leather.

Cleaning steps depending on the type of stain

Greasy stains (oil, butter, sauce…)

The go-to solution is Terre de Sommières, a natural powder with ultra-absorbing properties:

Generously sprinkle the affected area.
Let it sit overnight.
Gently brush the next day with a specific horsehair and brass brush for suede.

In case of a stubborn stain, a special liquid stain remover for suede leather can be used. Apply it with a cotton swab only on the stain, after testing the product on a less visible area. Let dry in the open air.

Water stains or rings

They are common and often underestimated. The right reflex:

Immediately dab with a clean, dry cloth.
Slightly moisten the entire area (or even the whole shoe) with a well-wrung sponge to even out the moisture and prevent a ring.

Let dry away from any heat source.

Ink or pen stains

Start by gently erasing the area with a special suede eraser, avoiding repeated rubbing.

If the stain persists, a specific liquid stain remover can be considered, always with the caution of a preliminary test.

Food stains (wine, coffee, sauce…)

When dealing with these stubborn liquids, the first rule is to never rub dry. This could set the stain into the fibers. Here is the gentle method:

Immediately blot with a clean cloth dampened with warm water, without soaking.
Add a drop of diluted white vinegar if the stain is colored (red wine, tomato sauce).
Let dry in the open air. If a halo appears, gently moisten the entire area to even it out.

Other common cases

Chewing gum: place the shoe in a plastic bag in the freezer for 1 to 2 hours. Once the gum has hardened, remove it with a blunt spatula.

Mold: brush the surface with a dry crepe brush. Then apply a special suede leather cleaner to remove invisible residues.

Blood: soak a cotton pad with diluted hydrogen peroxide, blot without rubbing. Always test on a less visible area beforehand.

General cleaning and regular maintenance of suede and nubuck

Basic equipment to have at home

Good maintenance starts with the right tools:

Crepe or soft brass brush to dust off without damaging.
Special suede eraser for everyday small marks.
Microfiber cloth to gently apply products.
Suitable suede leather cleaner for deep cleaning.
Renovating spray to hydrate and revive the material.
Waterproofing spray, as a preventive measure.

Our Suede Renovating Spray

Monthly maintenance routine

Brush the shoe dry to remove dust and dirt.
Clean with a mild soap or specific cleaner, using a cloth or appropriate foam.
Once dry, spray a nourishing renovator spray from a distance of 20 to 30 cm to revive the suede’s shine.
2 to 3 times a year, use a waterproofing spray for suede to provide long-lasting protection against water and stains.

💡 This ritual should be repeated every 4 to 6 weeks, depending on use. Increase the frequency in winter or in humid weather.

Products to absolutely avoid

Pure water used excessively.
Household cleaners, too harsh for these delicate leathers.
Baking soda, lemon, pure vinegar: although natural, these ingredients can discolor or abrade leather fibers.
Classic waxes and creams for smooth leather, incompatible with suede texture.

Restore and protect: extend the life of your shoes

Even with good care, suede eventually dulls. To revive the color and restore uniformity to your shoes:

Use a special recoloring spray for suede/nubuck, applied in a thin, even layer.
Brush gently once dry to bring back the texture of the fibers.

To prevent future mishaps, remember to waterproof your shoes every two to three weeks. This creates an invisible barrier against moisture and dirt.

And finally, as with all our In Corio models: alternate wearing, use shoe trees, and store your shoes away from light and humidity.