How to clean suede and nubuck shoes?
Suede and nubuck possess that discreet elegance that lasts through the seasons without ever losing their charm. But this refinement comes with demands. Their velvety texture, softness to the touch, and matte appearance require special care. Proper maintenance not only extends the lifespan of these shoes but also preserves their noble and authentic look.
At In Corio, we believe that elegance begins with the attention given to what you wear. That is why we have designed this expert guide to support you in caring for your suede or nubuck shoes. You will find essential steps, best practices, and precautions to know in order to maintain the beauty of these delicate materials without damaging them.
Identify the type of leather before cleaning
Differences between suede, nubuck, and velour leather
Suede, nubuck, velour leather… these terms often cause confusion. Yet, each name hides a specific characteristic:
- Nubuck is obtained by lightly sanding the outer side (grain side) of the leather. The result? A fine and silky texture, almost powdery. It is particularly fragile.
- Suede, or calf velour (as on our Martin model pictured), is sanded on the flesh side (inner side of the leather), which gives it a softer and deeper appearance, and better durability.
The term "velour leather" is sometimes used to refer to either one. Regardless of the name, the care required is very similar.
Why is this identification important?
Each leather has its own personality, and they do not all react the same way to products. A brush that is too stiff can mark nubuck, and a sponge that is too wet can stain suede. It is therefore better to adapt your technique and tools to preserve the nobility of the material.
Key steps to clean your suede or nubuck shoes
Step 1 – Preparation
Before starting, remove the laces to fully clear the upper. Then insert raw wooden shoe trees (cedar ideally) into your shoes: they ensure optimal shape support and absorb accumulated moisture. This simple step prepares your shoes for effective cleaning while preventing unsightly creases.
Step 2 – Dusting
A light but regular brushing is often enough to maintain your suede or nubuck shoes. Use a natural bristle brush, such as horsehair, and brush gently in the direction of the nap to avoid "polishing" the material. The goal is to remove surface dust and dirt without damaging the leather. In case of ingrained stains, it’s better to wait for the next step.
Step 3 – Gentle cleaning
For small marks, a special suede eraser is a valuable ally. It works like a pencil eraser: gently rub the affected area until the stain disappears.
For a deeper cleaning, opt for a mild suede shampoo, diluted in a little warm water. Apply using a crepe brush or a soft sponge with circular motions. Never soak the shoe. It is better to make several light passes than one aggressive wash.
To avoid: white vinegar, baking soda, or other household products. Too abrasive, they risk irreparably damaging the texture and color of the leather.
Step 4 – Drying
Once cleaning is finished, let your shoes dry in the open air, away from any direct heat source (radiator, hairdryer, sun…). The leather must dry slowly to maintain its suppleness and shape.
Insert white absorbent paper inside to speed up drying. Avoid newspaper: the ink could bleed onto the lining.
Reviving the color and protecting your shoes
Color renovator or recoloring spray
Over time, suede or nubuck can lose their shine. To revive their color, use a specific renovator spray (colored or colorless). Spray from 15 cm away, on a clean and dry surface, protecting the soles with cardboard or a cloth. Let dry for about thirty minutes.
Final brushing to restore the velvety appearance
Once the leather is dry, a final pass with a crepe or brass brush helps revive the texture and restore the leather’s characteristic velvety feel.
Protection and waterproofing
Finally, to deal with everyday challenges, apply a waterproofing spray specially designed for suede/nubuck. Be careful, no regular spray or multi-purpose products. Prefer a gentle formula, adapted to the delicacy of these leathers, to be applied 2 to 3 times a year, or after each cleaning.
Tips for specific stains
Certain stains require targeted actions and carefully chosen products. Here is how to treat them without compromising the material or the elegance of your shoes.
Oil or grease stains
A grease mark can quickly ruin the appearance of leather if not treated promptly. In this case, generously apply cornstarch or Fuller’s earth to the affected area. Let it sit for several hours, ideally overnight. Then gently brush or vacuum to remove the residue. This gentle method respects the material while absorbing the oil.
Chewing gum stains
This happens more often than you might think, especially in the city. Place the shoe in the freezer for a few minutes (in an airtight bag to protect it), then gently remove the chewing gum using a wooden spatula. The leather should never be scraped dry: patience remains your best ally.
Blood stains
Since leather is a porous material, blood can quickly become ingrained. Gently dab the area using a clean cloth soaked in lightly diluted hydrogen peroxide. Work with precision, without spreading the stain, and let it dry naturally. Never use hot water, as it would set the stain into the fibers.
What to absolutely avoid
Even the best intentions can have irreversible effects if the wrong methods are used. Here are common mistakes to avoid:
- Never put your shoes in the washing machine. The leather would become misshapen and lose its structure.
- No household products, even natural ones, for overall cleaning (vinegar, lemon, baking soda). Too harsh, they alter the texture.
- No direct heat sources: radiators or hair dryers dry out the leather, which can lead to cracking or stiffness.
- Avoid scrubbing too hard. Unlike smooth leather, suede and nubuck can become permanently shiny.
In short, a gentle but repeated action is better than a harsh and quick one.
Properly storing suede or nubuck shoes
The elegance of a shoe also depends on how well it is preserved over time. And that starts… as soon as you take them off.
- Use raw wooden shoe trees, ideally made of cedar. They absorb moisture, maintain shape, and prevent creasing.
- Store them in their original box or a fabric bag to avoid dust and direct light, both of which are harmful to delicate leathers.
- Keep them away from moisture, in a well-ventilated area. Avoid damp basements or overheated closets.
- For long-term storage, remove the laces: this prevents tension on the eyelets and allows for better airflow.
These simple steps extend the life of your shoes and preserve their appearance.
FAQ – Answers to the most frequently asked questions
What is the difference between suede and nubuck?
Suede is sanded on the flesh side (the inner side of the leather), giving it a fuzzier texture. Nubuck, on the other hand, is sanded on the grain side (the outer side of the leather), resulting in a finer, smoother feel. Both have a velvety appearance, but their finish and resistance differ slightly.
Can suede be cleaned with white vinegar?
Only on specific stains, with a very targeted and diluted application. For general maintenance, it’s better to use specific, gentle products designed to respect the leather’s fibers.
How can you restore the color of suede?
Apply a colored or colorless renovator after thoroughly dusting and cleaning the surface. Brushing after drying will reactivate the nap and even out the color.
How do you dry suede shoes?
In open air, away from any heat source. Never use a hair dryer or expose them to direct sunlight. Insert white absorbent paper inside (avoid newspapers), and wait 24 hours.
How to remove a stain from suede or nubuck?
