Shoe Trees: Everything You Need to Know to Choose Wisely
Made of wood or plastic, shoe trees are much more than simple accessories. Their mission? To preserve the shape and structure of your shoes, especially leather ones, which soften and crease over time.
Each step leaves a story, but that story shouldn’t be written across the vamp. Yet without proper leather shoe care, creases, deformations, or moisture can dull the elegance of even the most refined shoes.
At In Corio, we consider the shoe tree an essential companion to every pair of shoes, extending the life of the leather while preserving its comfort and style. This guide sheds light on how to use them, the most relevant selection criteria, and helps you invest wisely in this indispensable accessory of everyday elegance.
What is a shoe tree used for?
A shoe tree is a form slipped into the shoe between wearings: it re-stretches the leather, absorbs moisture and preserves the line of the shoe. Its principle is simple. The front fills the toe box, the heel rests against the heel counter, and a spring or screw maintains a slight tension between the two. It is this tension that allows the leather to regain its shape as it dries.
Maintain the shape of the shoe
Leather is a living material. It stretches, adapts, but can also lose its elegance. Without a shoe tree, the upper collapses, and the shoe becomes misshapen. By inserting a shoe tree right after use, you help the shoe maintain its original silhouette.
Imagine two identical pairs: one always stored with shoe trees, the other left without. After six months, the difference is striking—collapsed upper, deep creases, and a tired look.
Reduce comfort creases
Each step creates movement on the upper, and creases on the leather are natural. Shoe trees, by applying light but constant tension, help reduce these inevitable marks. Fewer breaks and creases: the discreet ally of your elegance.
Absorb moisture and perspiration
A worn shoe becomes a humid microclimate. Leather and lining absorb moisture from the foot or from the outside. Raw wood, especially cedar or beech, acts as a natural regulator.
Fighting against odors and moths
Red cedar doesn't just absorb moisture. Its pleasant woody scent and antifungal properties make it a natural barrier against bacteria, odors, and even moths.
Preserve the comfort of your shoes
A shoe that keeps its shape also keeps its fit. On our models, designed with an ergonomic last and a high-density latex midsole, the cedar shoe tree preserves that comfort pair after pair, wear after wear.
The different types of shoe trees
By Material
Raw Red Cedar ★★★★★
Antifungal, moth-repellent
Common dual mechanism
Highly recommended
Raw Beech ★★★★☆
No specific natural properties
Good alternative to cedar
Plastic ☆☆☆☆☆
No specific natural properties
Lightweight but lacks ergonomics
For transport only
Varnished woods should be avoided: their lack of porosity prevents moisture absorption. As for plastic, its lightness may be useful for travel, but it does not fulfill the essential functions expected of a good shoe tree.
By use
- Classics: For low-cut shoes like Oxfords or Derbies, and ankle boots, as it’s mainly the lower part of the shoe that needs to retain its shape.
- For boots: Elongated shape with reinforced shaft to prevent vertical collapse.
- Travel models: Made of plastic, foldable or very lightweight.
- Stretchers: "Forced" models, to be used with caution. Do not replace a properly fitted shoe.
For women’s shoes: on a loafer or a flat derby, a shoe tree with a slimmer front follows the line of the shoe without forcing the upper. An adjustable-length model suits slimmer lasts with precision.
For sneakers: a raw wood shoe tree suits a leather sneaker just as well as a dress shoe. It eases the creases at the front, where they show most, and extends the care you give to your white sneakers as well as to your models in suede or nubuck.
At In Corio, we favor classic raw wood shoe trees for their effectiveness, aesthetics, and durability. They are perfectly suited for our classic leather shoes and sneakers. A choice that extends the life of the leather while preserving the understated elegance of our designs.
How to choose the right shoe trees?
The right size
A poorly fitted shoe tree is almost as useless as no shoe tree at all. Too small, it doesn’t fill the shoe; too large, it deforms the structure. An adjustable shoe tree is the best compromise, adapting perfectly to the shape of the shoe.
At In Corio, our size guide will help you match each pair with its dedicated shoe tree, respecting the specific shape and material of the shoe.
Shape and Construction
The ideal construction of a shoe tree includes a dual mechanism: length and width adjustment. This allows for even tension across the entire shoe and maintains the arch shape. This type of mechanism is particularly well-suited for full-grain leather shoes.
A one-piece shoe tree made from raw wood, properly calibrated, is also acceptable as long as its shape fits your shoes well. It will therefore be less versatile.
Ergonomics and Practicality
A good shoe tree is, above all, functional. An integrated handle (often made of brass or polished metal) makes it easy to insert and remove without damaging the back of the shoe.
Some high-end models also feature a rounded heel piece to respect the shoe's anatomy and a sculpted front to support the toe box without putting pressure on it.
When and how to use your shoe trees?
How to put in a shoe tree
Putting in a shoe tree takes a few seconds and is done in four steps:
- Loosen the laces to open the shoe.
- Slide the front of the shoe tree in (slightly at an angle to begin with, it is easier) as far as the toe of the shoe, gently compressing the spring.
- Lower the heel of the shoe tree into the heel counter, using the handle, without crushing the upper.
- Check that the leather is taut without being forced: the creases in the vamp ease and the line of the shoe stays intact.
Ideal Frequency
You can insert raw wooden shoe trees as soon as you take off your leather shoes. Their porosity effectively absorbs residual moisture. The shoe trees can then remain in place until the next wear. This allows the leather to slowly regain its shape and dry in proper conditions.
For varnished shoe trees, it's better to wait 1 to 2 hours to allow the moisture to evaporate.
The shoe tree also accompanies every care ritual: a well-tensioned shoe takes the nourishing cream and the polish evenly, right into the flex creases.
In case of rain
When a leather shoe is soaked, the priority is to absorb the moisture. Start by inserting newspaper to draw out the water. Once the excess moisture has been removed (after a few hours), replace the paper with a raw wooden shoe tree.
In this case, the shoe tree becomes a vital ally: it preserves the shape while helping to dry out the inside of the shoe.
What budget should you plan for good shoe trees?
The price of a shoe tree often reflects its quality, material, and manufacturing precision.
- Entry-level (€10–20): Most often made of plastic or varnished wood. Not recommended for regular use, as they are ineffective at absorbing moisture and can sometimes deform the shoes.
- Mid-range (€25–50): Made of raw red cedar or solid beech. Excellent value for money. Ideal for daily use.
- High-end (€70–150): Custom-sculpted models or those with complex mechanisms. Perfect for very specific or high-value shoes.
At In Corio, we recommend investing in raw cedar shoe trees to pair with our shoes, as they strike the right balance between maintenance, aesthetics, and effectiveness.
Where to Buy Quality Shoe Trees?
Buying a good shoe tree depends as much on choosing the right product as on the reliability of the seller. In physical stores, direct fitting and personalized advice are real advantages. But online shopping, when well guided, offers undeniable convenience.
At In Corio, we offer a carefully curated selection of accessories designed to complement our collections. Each shoe tree is chosen for its ability to enhance the shape and preserve the material of our shoes.
Before purchasing, check these criteria:
- Raw material (avoid varnished or laminated woods)
- Presence of a dual mechanism
- Clean finish with no rough edges
- Clear return policy
A good shoe tree should not be a compromise, but a natural extension of the care you give to your shoes.
Not sure about the size of your shoe trees? Come and try our models and our cedar shoe trees in our stores in the Marais, Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Lyon.
Mistakes to Avoid with Shoe Trees
Even a good shoe tree becomes useless if used incorrectly. Here are the most common mistakes:
- Choosing the wrong size: too big, it warps the shoe; too small, it’s ineffective.
- Using varnished wood: it prevents moisture absorption.
- Using plastic daily: keep it for transport only.
- Forgetting them after the rain: never insert a shoe tree into a soaked shoe without absorbing the water first.
The right habit: a properly sized, raw wood shoe tree used methodically and regularly.
FAQ
What wood should you choose for a quality shoe tree?
Raw red cedar is the go-to wood. In addition to its beautiful finish, it is naturally antifungal, moth-repellent, and releases a pleasant woody scent that helps purify the leather. Raw beech is a good alternative if you're looking for a balance between effectiveness and budget.
When should you insert shoe trees?
If they're made from raw wood—especially red cedar—you can insert them as soon as you take your shoes off. The shoe trees can then stay in place until the next time you wear the shoes. For varnished wood, you'll need to wait 1 to 2 hours before using them, as the shoes need time to dry first. Only exception: a soaked shoe, which we suggest drying first with newspaper.
How long should shoe trees be left in the shoes?
Until the next wear. A well-fitted raw wood shoe tree can stay in place for several days, or even a whole season for pairs you wear less often.
Do shoe trees stretch shoes?
No, unless you're using so-called “stretchers,” which are specifically designed to widen shoes. Standard shoe trees simply help maintain the original shape of the shoe.
The right steps to protect your leather shoes
